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Experts： How do the down jacket enterprises control the quality before testing?

2019-06-12     来源：中国纤检     浏览量：3422

Quality control is the whole process control of product from design to production, from material use to process, and is also the premise of product passing quality inspection. So, how should the down garment enterprises control the risk in the front and check the quality before testing? On May 9, at the China Down Industry Quality Conference, Luo Shengli, Minister of Technology of Textile and Garment Inspection Institute of Guangzhou Inspection Group, and Zhang Yulian, Technical Director of Far East Zhengda Inspection Group, analyzed and recruited the enterprises on the spot in view of the common concerns of down garment enterprises.

It is more important to take precautionary measures before testing.

"Preventing in advance is better than remedying afterwards. Enterprises should control product risks at the front end and not wait for large shipments to be delivered before solving them. This will cost too much and can not guarantee that all problems can be solved." Luo Shengli talked about the importance of taking preventive measures before testing.

According to Luo Shengli, many problems can be avoided as long as they are well controlled in advance. She summarized several common situations for enterprises to refer to.

One is the phenomenon of water stains on down clothes after washing. This phenomenon is more common. The main reason is that the lining and gallbladder of down clothes are made of high density fabrics or coated fabrics. In the washing process, the detergent inside is not easy to clean, and there will be residues. Water stains are easy to form in the drying process, which belongs to the appearance problem after washing.

Although the standard of GB/T 14272-2011 "Down Garment" does not assess the appearance after washing, the appearance after washing is particularly important. It is a concern of consumers, and many enterprises also require testing. Therefore, when choosing and purchasing fabrics, enterprises should not blindly pursue anti-drilling down, but ignore its permeability and moisture permeability, because it will not only cause water stains, but also affect the comfort of wearing. It is suggested that enterprises should make warm tips on hanging tags: centrifugal dehydration should be done after washing, and the water in down clothes should be dehydrated, so that it is not easy to form water stains when drying.

She also emphasized that a down jacket with water stains, although the color fastness to water stains can reach four to five levels, but its alkali and acid color fastness is only two levels, it is very easy to form water stains, and the washing detergents used in peacetime are basically alkaline. If the enterprise controls the alkali and acid fastness well, the waterlogging problem can be solved.

Take a green down jacket before and after washing as an example. The green down jacket looks like two pieces of clothes because of its serious fading. The main reason for the great difference before and after washing is that the yellow dye is not washable, because green is the color formed by the blending of yellow and blue, so to solve this problem, we only need to change to washable yellow dye.

In addition, the phenomenon of wear and down drilling at the folding part of down jacket cuffs should also be noticed. It is suggested that enterprises should test the folding wear of down jackets coated on the cuffs to avoid this risk.

Second, the down coat has changed. There are mainly the following phenomena:

(1) Black particles appeared on down clothes. Some down clothes will appear black particles after wearing for a period of time. After analysis, it is found that the main reason is that the reverse coating of the fabric falls off and oxidizes to black. Therefore, the products with coatings need to pay attention to the factors such as adhesion fastness and oxidation resistance of the coatings.

(2) Discoloration of local coatings on down garments. For example, a coffee down jacket has a local greening phenomenon. After testing, it is found that the metal content in the coating is very high, especially copper content.  Copper reacts with oxygen, carbon dioxide and water in the air to form basic copper carbonate, also known as copper green. Therefore, if the metal content of the coating is high, it will easily lead to oxidation and discoloration of the coating.

(3) The product discoloration occurs in the warehouse. For example, black down jacket yellowing phenomenon, after testing, found that the coating fabric contains a large number of organic volatiles such as toluene, phenolic aldehyde, with the accumulation of organic volatiles, resulting in oxidative yellowing of the fabric. However, after washing down clothes, they can change back to the original color, but after a period of time, yellowing will occur again. But if it is taken out for dry cleaning, yellowing will not occur again. This is mainly due to the reaction between dry cleaning agent and organic volatiles, so it will not yellowing. In addition, there are coated printing on the surface of down clothing and coating on the reverse side, which may occur during storage. The shallow oxidation of dyes on the surface results in the appearance of the reverse coating through the fabric. Therefore, the oxidation resistance of the coated fabric should also be paid attention to.

In view of the above several situations, in fact, enterprises use coated fabrics when the risk is relatively large, so it is particularly important to do a good job of quality control in advance.

Thirdly, the problems arising from down garment technology and fabrics. In the past two years, a seamless rubber-pressed down jacket has appeared on the market. Seamless rubber-pressed down jacket is used instead of sewing thread to avoid drilling down the needle hole. However, seamless rubber-pressed down jackets also have risks, because some down jackets can easily peel off by testing the peeling strength of the rubber-pressed part before washing, but it is easy to peel off after washing. In addition, in the storage or wearing process, the aging of rubber strip will also lead to glue opening, so enterprises should pay attention to the firmness and durability of glue pressing process.

Bubbles appeared on nylon and spandex down jackets. This is due to the relaxation of polyurethane fibers, which is related to the performance of the polyurethane fibers selected by enterprises. On the other hand, the high-temperature setting is used in the processing and finishing of enterprises to damage the polyurethane fibers, resulting in the phenomenon of relaxation of polyurethane fibers. Therefore, enterprises should take preventive measures when using this kind of fabric.

It's difficult to wash out the dirty spots of down clothes. The main reason is that the combination of fabric and dirty dirt is relatively large, and it is not easy to remove. It is suggested that enterprises choose stain-resistant or easily decontaminated down clothing fabrics to facilitate consumer cleaning.

In addition, many down clothing brands now attach great importance to market complaints, incorporating the quality issues reflected in market complaints into the internal control management of enterprises, and combining with the actual feedback from consumers, controlling the product quality risk in an all-round way. The internal control indicators are even stricter than or more than the requirements of national standards and standards. These practices deserve to be advocated.

Quality Aspects of Down Garments

Recently, in order to compare the quality differences of down clothing brands in the domestic market, the quality problems of down clothing brands in the market were evaluated from the perspective of third-party detection, which attracted the attention of down clothing enterprises. Far Eastern Zhengda Inspection Group purchased samples of well-known down clothing brands at its own expense from major shopping malls in Beijing and tested them.

After more than two months, Far Eastern Zhengda Group bought back each sample, and made a comparative analysis from the quality of down filling material, tailoring design, process quality, consumer wear experience and so on. Zhang Yulian said that Zhengda had purchased 8 brands and 9 samples, including domestic brands and foreign brands, and there was no public brand name in the analysis. It was a fair and impartial third party position to objectively compare and analyze the quality of down clothing samples.

It is understood that each of the nine down clothing samples has a corresponding serial number from 1 to 9; the sample categories are: men's down clothes, down clothes, men's medium-length down clothes, seamless down coats for women, men's down clothes and several categories; the indicated down types are: white duck down, white down, grey down; the indicated down content is 80% respectively. And 90%. The indicated filling quantity ranges from 127 g to 450 g. The market price is the highest of 9600 yuan and the lowest of 798 yuan.

Zhang Yulian said that in fact, each down jacket sample has its own advantages and disadvantages, but the down jacket is ultimately in the hands of consumers, so it is still to be seen from the perspective of consumers. In the detection, mainly from the following aspects:

One is the appearance quality. Sample No. 1 zipper is not very flat, there are waves; Samples No. 3 and No. 4, with slight wrinkles at the front, can be seen by consumers at a glance, which belongs to the appearance quality problem; Sample No. 2 and Sample No. 7, however, do well in both aspects.

Second, sewing quality. Sample No. 1 is not very straight and smooth in sewing, and most of them have exposed threads, which sell in a general way. Sample No. 3 is also a poor sewing stitch, which is not in place after sewing, and the details are not well done.

Third, consumer experience. In the test, we invited 10 consumers to evaluate 9 samples after fitting. Among them, 9 consumers felt that sample No. 1 had a strong sense of weight-bearing and consumed too much energy for a long time; the collar design of sample No. 1 had artificial fur, which made consumers feel more comfortable; the collar of sample No. 2 and sample No. 6 was designed with flannel cloth to alleviate skin discomfort; the cuff design of sample No. 5 was loose. Tightening band closure is relatively common; sample 2 cuffs are designed with half gloves, one thumb can be inserted, which can not affect movement but also play a role in windshield, reduce consumer chills, this design can add points; pocket cloth design, sample 8 and sample 5 pockets are made of velvet fabric, consumers reflect warmth retention more. Good; waist windproof design. Sample 2 has a rope pulling design at the waist. When there is a strong wind, the wind will not directly pour into the body, which can reduce the chill of the human body.

Fourth, filler analysis. Mainly according to GB/T 14272-2011 down garment standard component analysis method, and do 0.1 grams of down in the number of. Usually in the unit weight, the more the number, the smaller the pile, the less the number, the larger the pile. In addition, the ripeness of down also affects the fluffy degree of down quality indicators, and the more mature the down, the higher the fluffy degree, and vice versa, the lower the fluffy degree. In addition, the phenomenon of glue velvet was found in the samples tested. For example, samples No. 1, No. 6, No. 7 and No. 8 all have this kind of situation. From the comprehensive analysis, the cashmere content and cashmere content of No. 6 and No. 8 samples did not meet their nominal targets, such as GB/T 14272-2011 assessment, can not pass.

Fifth, the compression resilience of ready-made clothes. When doing this test, the down jacket should be laid flat on the table, the thickness of the down jacket should be measured, and a certain weight should be added to hold it down to see how much the thickness of the down jacket can be restored in a short time. The significance of compression resilience is that in cold areas, when people sit in a car and lean against the seat, they squeeze out the air in their clothes. If clothes do not rebound in time after getting off the car, they may cause frostbite. This is also the significance of this indicator. Through testing, the best compression resilience is Sample 3, Sample 2, Sample 9 and Sample 5. The resilience of these samples is more than 60%.

In addition, due to the importance of air permeability for down clothing, special analysis of air permeability of down clothing fabrics, lining and gallbladder cloth was carried out.

Zhang Yulian admits that although air permeability is very important for down jackets, it is contradictory to down-drilling. Good air permeability may lead to drilling down, poor air permeability, poor resilience, and possibly down jacket explosion in the washing machine, which has been reported by the media.

What needs to be corrected is that the down is not exploding. This is a misunderstanding. The down itself is not explosive, but when its permeability is zero, under certain pressure conditions, the air inside will be squeezed out. If there is no place to squeeze, it will be destructive. Therefore, the control of the air permeability of down clothing is very important, which needs to arouse the brand's high attention.

Finally, Zhang Yulian showed the comprehensive scores of sample detection: 149 points for No. 1 sample, 189 points for No. 2 sample, 150 points for No. 3 sample, 157 points for No. 4 sample, 161 points for No. 5 sample, 139 points for No. 6 sample, 154 points for No. 7 sample, 146 points for No. 8 sample and 160 points for No. 9 sample. Among them, Sample No. 2 has the highest score, moderate price and cost-effective ratio, which comes from domestic brands, while Sample No. 1 has the highest price and comes from foreign brands, and its quality score is only in the fourth grade, which does not show its advantages.

Zhang Yulian said that from this comparative analysis, in fact, each sample has its own specific shortboard, which should be highly valued by down clothing brands. Moreover, from the comparative analysis of domestic and foreign down clothing brands, domestic down clothing brand quality is not bad, cost-effective or even higher, so consumers should not be superstitious about foreign brands.

This article is excerpted from the 6th issue of China Fiber Inspection Magazine in 2019.

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